Fashion Finland invited Jasmin Santanen to reflect on the defining moments of her career.
Discussing the highlights & the behind-the-scenes pivotal moments at the core of the Jasmin Santanen Paris fashion journey
Finnish fashion designer has had a long career in Paris, with twists including encounters with Monaco’s Prince Albert and Rock Poet Jim Morrison
Fashion designer Jasmin Santanen’s childhood home was like a sewing studio.
“My mother, being a captain’s wife, often needed elegant gowns for formal occasions. She also made my clothes and tailored her own, so choosing fabrics and planning sewing projects became a regular part of my daily life.”
The beautiful dresses made young Santanen’s eyes sparkle with a dream of becoming a fashion designer. There was just one problem: she couldn’t draw.
“In school, I had learned the basics of sewing, but the thought of having to draw a person, a face, or a mannequin felt distant. My self-confidence [in turning fashion into a career] wasn’t great.”
Driven by her interest in design, Santanen decided to prepare for the entrance exams at the Ateneum School of Art and Design – only to feel disheartened.
“I was supposed to draw scissors as one of the assignments. That’s when I decided to go abroad.”
At the age of 22, after graduating from the prestigious Parsons School of Design — whose alumni include Donna Karan, Tom Ford, and Marc Jacobs — Santanen spent nearly a decade working within the Parisian Fashion industry in various jobs before launching her own line.
“I didn’t even speak French that well, as I had studied in English and attended school in New York. I only moved to Paris during my final academic year.”
Santanen frequently attended fashion events, portfolio in hand. Then came a stroke of luck: an editor from Italian Vogue was impressed by her work. Their recommendation opened doors to several prestigious houses, including Yves Saint Laurent and Hermès.
“At that time, creativity was valued above all, and commercialism was seen as a dirty word. My original style received admiration.”
One particular meeting from that period stands out.
“Vanessa Bruno, who at the time had a small boutique in the Marais, saw the same portfolio I had shown the big fashion houses.” While entirely legitimate, Bruno’s comments regarding the practicality of the designs, ‘Who on earth wears these? Who are they designed for?” stayed with Santanen.
Jasmin Santanen observes that attitudes toward fashion in France differ significantly from those in Finland. “Personally, I tend to dress in a practical and comfort-driven manner, which is why the femininity in my work often surprises those who know me.”
In 2004, Santanen decided it was time to launch her own collection.
“My first spring collection in 2005, was sold at L’Eclaireur boutique in Paris. The clothes found their audience, the brand began to take shape, and the young designer gained exposure. Soon, she was offered the opportunity to present her collection during Paris Haute Couture Week in the summer of 2007.
“That was an opportunity I had to seize, it elevated my work to a whole new level. By then I was fortunate enough to already have a team around me.”
However, the demands of presenting a show each Fashion week eventually took its toll.
“Once you’ve hosted a show, expectations for the next year grow: What will you do this time? If you’re absent, there’s the risk of being forgotten along with your brand.”
In 2011, Santanen’s couture-level evening gowns led to a request to dress the cast of Bertrand Bonello’s film House of Tolerance (Apollonide) for the Cannes Film Festival.
“The project brought great visibility, and it was incredible as a designer to experience the whole spectacle.”
A few months later, Santanen found herself in Monaco.
There, she presented her Riviera-inspired Shimmering Dream summer collection, which was inspired by characters from Fellini films. The event was opened by Monaco’s Prince Albert, who later joined Santanen’s group for the evening.
“It turned out that Prince Albert has a warm relationship with Finland and is passionate about sustainability. At the end of our brief discussion, Prince Albert kindly offered his help in advancing the brand presence in Monaco.”
As a result of their meeting, Santanen was invited to join Monaco’s fashion chamber, Chambre Monegasque de la Mode, to further develop her signature couture concept of ecological and ethical Parisian elegance.
Although the timing wasn’t right to expand the collection and brand presence to Monaco, the events there deepened Santanen’s commitment to sustainable production.
Santanen is a devoted admirer of the Doors’ music. The influence of the bohemian rock dandy Jim Morrison was evident in the Love Her Madly collection, with its sleek leather pants and airy, lace-adorned blouses. ‘Morrison spent the last months of his life in Paris, in the same neighborhood where I now live,” Santanen tells.
In recent years, Santanen has focused on direct sales and custom-made clothing for her existing clientele. She meets clients at her showroom in Paris’s 3rd arrondissement. Atelier work is familiar — and enjoyable — to her.
“I’ve always had my own atelier where the first samples and small production runs are made.”
Though also operating a small online shop, Santanen admits, she still has a lot to learn about managing it.
At the same time, Santanen has been contemplating on how to reach customers without hefty biannual investments in fashion weeks or large-scale marketing expenditures.
“Individual collections pass by so quickly, and the seasons follow each other at a rapid pace,” she says. The solution seems to lie in a more timeless design philosophy, one that aligns with Jasmin’s sustainability values.
While sustainability has increasingly become a guiding principle in her work, there are practical realities one must also consider. “Different fabrics wear differently, so you can’t make everything with the idea that it should last twenty years — although, of course, a garment can turn out to last that long.”
In 2020, Santanen participated in Venice Fashion Week collaborating with Martina Vidal, a renowned lace manufacturer from Burano. She was deeply inspired by an early 20th-century loungewear collection discovered in Vidal’s archives. “The cuts and intricate lace details became the inspiration for my Being Luisa collection,” she reveals.
Currently, Santanen is working on a Signature collection, updating iconic shirts and dresses she has designed over her long career for today’s day and age. The women’s collection, produced primarily in Finland using Parisian couture techniques, will be launched next spring.
She’s also involved in an innovation project funded by Business Finland, called Nativemind
“The goal is to combine organic materials like salmon leather, lambskin (a byproduct of the food industry), and goat fur with Parisian fashion expertise and aesthetics.”
“I often visit Finland to see my family and friends, but for now, I don’t miss living there. Life in Paris is more inspiring.”
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